The Cousins Fish Market
581 Livingston Ave., Albany
432-1675

Hours: Open during the summer from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Thursday and Saturday; 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Friday

The Cousins Fish Market has been supplying the Capital Region with excellent fish at reasonable prices for more than 20 years. So it makes sense that we were in for something special when they ventured into the fish-fry business three years ago.

The basic fish fry at The Cousins is a long, thick cut of bluefish that tastes tender, juicy and fresh. The coating is crisp, but doesn't overwhelm the fish. A fish-fry dinner with fries and cole slaw is $4.95. Daily specials often bring the price down to $2.95.

For the best fish-fry dish, try the haddock ($3.45). The generous portion, fried with the skin on, is full of flavor without being the least bit fishy.

If you're feeling experimental, the Cousins will fry any fish in the store for a $2 charge. Other seasonal specialties are worth trying. In season, don't miss the fried soft-shell crab with french fries and cole slaw for $4.95.

The cocktail and tartar sauces are homemade and delicious, as are the other deli dishes such as ribs and chicken wings.

The Cousins is take-out only, although there are a couple of picnic benches in front for warmer weather.